{ mira project: summer 2005 // sanary-sur-mer, france }

ONE: Discussion of the area and Le Centre Azur as a destination

While the south of France is at times a concretely identifiable space, it also serves as an imagined place manipulated predominantly by the media. Collective thoughts on the area include the glamorous lives of movie stars (proliferated by celebrities such as Brigitte Bardot), parties such as the Cannes film Festival, jet-setting celebrities, gambling in Monte Carlo and all that the comes with the Grimaldi family or it's simply the sun drenched coast embracing mountains that plunge into an crystal clear yet azure blue sea.

Through interviewing locals, ex-patriots and tourists I was able to gain a few interesting perspectives on the area. Perspectives obviously guided by the geographic history of the interviewee. While some of the data collected fit well into the realm of cliché or expected, I also gathered opinions thoughts and ideas that many non-European people would never have considered.

As this story line closely mirrors the main theme of the study, a departure exists with the introduction of one simple parameter. Respondents were asked to simply speak about Le Centre Azur and its relationship to Sanary-sur-Mer while sometimes bringing in ideas about the greater region (Provence and Le Cote D'Azur). Some subjects thought that Le Centre Azur was a poor example of the region and then went on to prove that it actually was a prime example with their words. It also was clear that the very things that people reportedly love about the region, they seem to dislike about Le Centre Azur and vice versa.

One example is the lazy and relaxed nature of the region. Nearly everything closes from noon until 2 or 3 daily. Work is rarely organized well. Time and talent are often poorly utilized, as the citizens prefer a laissez-faire approach to life. While the relaxed nature of the south is attribute is praised among many, shop closures seem to annoy many foreigners. Also, as the town?s relaxed nature is at time kitschy in its humor, the same attribute of Le Centre Azur irritates most of the staff.

"The south of France exists to cater to Parisians." -Tim

"The dry climate, noise of the cicadas and brown landscape somehow provokes a relaxed feeling." -Torsten

Through interviewing several foreigners (mainly Germans), I was able to gather data about perceptions of the area. Tim, a German living in Paris felt that the South of France was there to cater to Parisians. He saw Paris and the South in a love/hate relationship with wildly differing worldviews. He also stated that the two were in a symbiotic relationship, actually needing the other. Parisians needs a vacation area, while the south needs their money. Tim went on to state that Parisians feel those living in Provence are lazy, while the Provincial population says Parisians are way too stressed out only worrying about money.

Torsten, a German on vacation in the area saw the south of France as an imagined place. One that he could create, yet would disappear in the minds of Germans in the winter as their focus shifted towards the mountains for winter sports. He also felt that some of the areas nature qualities inadvertently persuaded a relaxed attitude. Through the constant buzz of the cicadas and the dry / brown landscape, Torsten felt that he was able to relax further. The one aspect of the region that bothered Torsten was the building of roads to close to the beaches. Parallel to most beaches in the area are roads and even highways. The hum of cars and honking of horns did much to remove the relaxed feeling he received from the areas further inland. With the beach as a crown jewel in the mystique of the region, I found it curious that Torsten took issue with the noise of cars.

At the center of reported French culture is food. And also at the centre of Le Centre Azur is the reason for employment and congregation not to mention nutrition, the meals. The amount of preparation is not unlike a Zen Buddhist meditation, setting 100 places by hand, salads for all tables, opening countless bottles of wine, chopping thousands of morsels of bread and then cleaning up after it all.

One group sets the tables, another prepares the food, then the table setters serve the food, while a third team washing the dishes. It is a moderately smooth operation. Smooth for south of France standards.

No matter what the schedule the staff at Le Centre Azur enjoys lunch and dinner together in a family style dining experience. The meal starts with 2-3 bottles of wine on the table, salad and bread. Then moves into the main course, a meat dish with a vegetable. It is finished with coffee and desert and always dotted with off-color, highly non-pc and even downright rude conversation (and sometime squabbling). From time to time the meal is punctuated with someone becoming incensed and excusing themselves from the table with gusto.

After most every dinner shift a collection of the staff assemble outside Le Mas ("farmhouse" is the staff residence) for drinks and comical banter. Usually a few bottles of wine have been consumed and/or brought from the kitchen, along with Pastis (a liquor made from licorice and is the predominate beverage for the area). During this time a wide range of topics are explored. Everything from nude sunbathing, the appropriateness of a colleague performing a striptease, post summer plans, discussions about the executive staff or other staff that never join the soiree, international interests, the history of the area, sex, sex, sex and really anything that comes to mind. Often the conversations are carried out in 90% French with German, Italian and English phrases appearing from time to time.

Also emerging from the nightly wind down cocktail time I was able to document with a video camera many opinions and views in an informal manner. These relaxed interviews often produced candid discussion concerning interpersonal relationships, thoughts/opinion on the region and Le Centre Azur, personal histories/stories, future plans, likes and dislikes, and a host of other philosophical debates. The time spent is never boring or lacking in entertaining yet culturally interesting merit.

Many foreigners and even French citizens from elsewhere in France have a strong inclination to assume the cultural practices of the region. German ex-patriots (young and old) dine, drink, live and even drive as the French after enough time. When invited to eat with a retired German couple, I was greeted with an aperitif (Pastis of course), followed by Tapenade, olives and baguettes. The meal consisted of provincially prepared fish, French style salad and a dessert of apricots over ice cream (a dessert I was served at 2/3's of the meals consumed outside Le Centre Azur.

I witnessed Parisians dressing and decorating their homes in a provincial manner. Napping daily. Closing their blinds during the day, as the French are famous for. Guarding their property with fences. Preparing and drinking coffee with the expression, "I have joined the French coffee cult."

Starting around June and lasting until late August, most provincial and coastal cities in France have elaborate summer festivals. This involves bi-weekly markets that encompass most all of the downtown area and nightly extravaganzas. The evening activities include circus-style entertainment: rides, midway games, many live musical acts, vendors and lots of food. It is a cultural staple that comes with the most of France taking off a month to enjoy a family vacation.

Some intriguing questions that came from observing the nightly festivities orbit notions of cultural assumption. Why are there hair-braiding booths here too? Do people swing and juggle fireballs in all coastal resort towns? Are those ?Indians? American or Mayan? or both? and does it even matter?